Does anyone else recall singing this cheery ditty to their weans? One day, we shall be explaining to our grandchildren what a chimney is, given most recent housing developments don’t have any! A sad indictment on modern architecture methinks. Personally speaking I am delighted to report we have two chimneys and Santa is very welcome.
There can be no such problem in Harghita* where every celebration has a chimney cake, Kürtőskalács, a culinary tradition of the Szekler community of Transylvania. This sweet yeast dough confection, a cross between croissant and cake, has layers of pastry crafted onto a cone-shaped baking spit, rolled in sugar and toasted over hot charcoal.
It caramelises to a golden hue and, when ready, is rolled in ground walnuts or cinnamon. The image is complete as steam rises from the piping hot delicacy, likening it to a smoking chimney. We were treated to a chimney cake workshop in Korond – a superb example of food travel and taste experiences.
In Sweden a pepparkakor hus, Gingerbread house, is the traditional must-have. Fun to make and limited only by your imagination, it makes a fabulous centrepiece until razed to the ground and eaten! In olden days these were always cut into shapes of the farmer, his wife and his piglets. Heart-shaped ones make beautiful window decorations, intricately decorated with royal icing. Back in Scotland, mince pies are still a firm favourite with a clootie dumpling in our house, shortbread and truffles.
Slow Food Awards
At this time of year we also celebrate the 2024 winners of Slow Food Awards across UK, with a particular mention for:
UK Cook of the Year, Neil Forbes of Café St Honore Edinburgh, SF Cooks Alliance member, skilled chef and staunch supporter of artisan producers.
Producer of the Year, Uradale Farm, Shetland, where the Eunson family farm organically with native breeds, producing meat and unique pure bred, naturally dyed Native Shetland yarns. Uradale produces four Ark products: Native Shetland sheep, Native Shetland kye, reestit mutton and kye sassermaet. Hot Press: Uradale is Scotland’s first Slow Food Farm, a new initiative launched at Terra Madre this autumn.
People of the Year, Tommy & Mary Isbister. Normally an individual, this year the award is to a couple. The Isbisters are truly unsung heroes of Shetland’s heritage. Tommy & Mary live on Burland Croft, Trondra, Shetland, where, over the decades, they have rescued, nurtured, conserved and generally prevented the extinction of many native Shetland breeds (all on Slow Food Ark of Taste): Shetland ducks, Papa Stour Shetland Hen, Tappit Shetland Hen, Shetland geese, Shetland Kye, Shetland sheep, Shetland kale, Shetland bere, and Shetland Black tatties.
Their dedication to the Shetland birds is particularly interesting and valuable as no one else has achieved or preserved so much. The hens especially are under real threat, and without Tommy & Mary they would be long gone. Thanks to good detective work, The Isbisters managed to save the last of these birds – so many had been cross-bred with others and cross-breeding of many traditional breeds is still a huge problem. The Isbister birds are pure bred genebank landrace breeds.
Last but not least, please SAVE THE DATE for the Scottish Bread Championship on Friday 14th February and the Scottish Festival of Real Bread the following day, Saturday 15th February, where there will be the prize giving alongside many workshops, demos, stalls and talks. Entry forms for competitors will go live on Thursday 9thJanuary. We are immensely grateful for Championship sponsorship from the Edinburgh Bakers Trust. With no additional financial funders this year, we value the “in kind” support from Scotland The Bread, Bowhouse venue, Andrew Whitley, and me, alongside a much appreciated team of volunteers. If you know of anyone who would like to support our efforts, please forward them this Sponsor Pack.
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So whether you are enjoying the warmth of faraway Hawaii or toasting your toes by a log fire in snowy Scandinavia; our fabulous members, family and chums here in Scotland or our new acquaintances of Harghita… wherever you are reading this, Bosse and I wish you a peaceful Christmas and offer the immortal Scottish message of goodwill, “Lang may yer lum reek.”
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*I had the pleasure to visit this region of Transylvania as part of the international Jury of Experts for the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts & Tourism.