After the storms, the sun shone as we set off northward bound for Orkney. Passing a flurry of snow by Aviemore, the Cromarty Firth sparkled as we paused for a lovely lunch at the bustling Storehouse, a new Scottish Food Guide member on the NC500. Onwards to Ulbster Arms in Halkirk, a very bonnie country hotel; popular with fisherfolk and the perfect launchpad after dinner and a good night’s slumber for the early Northlink ferry from Scrabster.
Always a delight to revisit Orkney, our first stop was a busy book signing at The Orcadian Bookshop. Such a super emporium it is impossible not to be tempted by the eclectic selection of volumes on sale – a perfect Christmas gift.
With lunch booked at Sheila Fleet Kirk Gallery & Café, we took the brief trip past the airport to Tankerness, where Sheila and her family lovingly restored the wee church adjacent to her original studio, creating an oasis of beautiful architecture, stunning jewellery designs, local artwork, hand-crafted furniture and gifted chefs cooking mouthwatering locally inspired dishes. What’s not to love?
Santa’s hasselbacks (pictured), a festive medley with slivers of turkey and all the trimmings among the hasselback potatoes, were flying out the door and no wonder – I can testify it’s delicious. Sheila’s jewellery designs reflecting nature’s sea and shore, flora and fauna, rockpools and archaeology are second to none.
Over on West Mainland, Barony Mill is a very special place. Operated by the Birsay Heritage Trust, it is a national treasure, a fully functioning watermill, milling and selling Orkney Bere, the rare 6-row barley on Slow Food International’s Ark of Taste. It is available in various forms; fine flour perfect for baking, flakes suitable for coating and cooking, and bere berries, perfect for risottos, soups and savouries as a healthy low-food-mile alternative to rice. The nutty flavour and rich roast colour make it a versatile must in any cook’s larder.
Orkney is not only rich in archaeological sites but also in fine produce, with two excellent artisan cheesemakers, Lara at The Orkney Dairy and Barry at Burnside Cheese, both deserving of our respect and support for all their efforts. Lara and her family have a small herd of Fleckvieh cattle, a dual purpose alpine breed with an exceptional milk quality, perfect for her products: creamy fresh cheese (natural and garlic versions), velvety yoghurt, milkshakes and chocolate bombs. We left laden with our purchases of her fabulous yoghurt and her range of fresh cheeses. Barry’s farmhouse cheese is inspired by tradition, building on Barry’s heritage to create smooth, creamy characterful cheeses from local milk.
The Orkney Boreray Sheep Community HQ is very close by (with a small detour to the Harray Potter to admire his ceramics) and we had an excellent catch up with Jane Cooper, Founder and Keeper of the Flock Book. This trip we were fortunate to meet the owners of two more flocks: Hazel & Norman on Stronsay, and Kate near Barony.
We had the pleasure of meeting the Westray flock on our last trip so we are gradually working our way round the Community members. It is not only mutton that is on sale but also skins and yarn, bone designs and tweed, with more to follow so check them out. Their achievements and enthusiasm may be unknown or unappreciated by many but read Jane’s book, “The Lost Flock” and you will never look at a sheep the same way again! When in season, they are available from Jock at Macbeths and I’ll keep you posted. Both the Orkney Boreray and the North Ronaldsay Sheep are ancient short-tailed breeds and Slow Food International Presidium Communities, the only two in Scotland and both on Orkney.
Orkney Sourdough is the brainchild of Karin, a professional chef and skilled
sourdough guru. We set the world to rights in Swenglish (given that both she and Bosse are Swedish) over a delicious meal and the following day I was sharp at Shearer’s door to ensure I didn’t miss her freshly baked delivery, buying a bundle of loaves, Westray Bakehouse biscuits and Burnside Cheese to take back to Fife. A short walk from Shearers is Brian’s charming Orkney Souvenirs, a stalwart of Kirkwall and our go-to for traditional Orkney oat straw basketware I adore. He moved recently to Victoria Street so don’t miss it.
With bread bagged up and cheese in our fridge, that left festive drinks to sort and an enjoyable newsy chat with Collin at J Gow Rum and Orkney Wine Company by the Italian Chapel. Collin not only creates an imaginative – and award-winning – range of rum, named after a real Orcadian pirate, he is also a talented artist, creating all his own labels and designs. His parents began with the foraged wines that are excellent and popular, now also collaborating with Collin’s handiwork such as the delicious Elderberry Port-Style Wine now aged in a J Gow rum cask for added nuances.
We stayed at the lovely Lynnfield, a unique and wonderful establishment, brimming with beautiful furnishings, delectable menus, an infinite range of whiskies, luxurious accommodation and panoramic views over Kirkwall. The service, as always was friendly and reassuring, cheery and efficient. It is important to say this was the case throughout our trip. These days we hear so much about staff challenges and poor service, it was a joy to see such a high standard of staff across all the members we visited: loyal and cheery, helpful and smart. I am sure the hands-on approach of the proprietors ensures much of their success with staffing and it was a pleasure to meet them all.
Last but by no means least, I had conversations with the Orkney Scallop Divers. Life is never easy, not least when you spend your working days underwater harvesting world-class King Scallops only to see local sea beds damaged by destructive dredging. This is the beginning, not the end, of Scottish Food Guide’s support for this traditional and sustainable community so watch this space.
The world of commerce and greed too often tramples on Scotland’s potential to be one of the world’s finest producers, whether that be the industrial fishing techniques wreaking havoc inshore; vast salmon farms polluting our clear waters or inappropriate cross-breeding disrupting priceless genebanks. Scotland is not alone for we see it happening in Sweden too however it is a relief to see an increasing number prepared to swim upstream, express resistance, and persevere whether farming livestock or making cheese and other artisan produce.
En route south, after another night at Halkirk, we stopped off at one such delightful young couple, forging a sustainable and rewarding crofting life in Rogart, where they have created a smultron stället with native breeds, kitchen garden and are increasingly self-sufficient.. More of that another day.
We have great hopes for Orkney’s future, with many examples of the next generation inspired to carry on, grow the business and enhance with their own ideas and dreams. And talking of youth, another highlight of our stay was our introduction to Ernie, the chestnut Shetland pony. The seven month old foal was as cute as they come, out for a walk with his owner by Tankerness. It was love at first sight, I only wish I’d taken a photo of the peerie bairn.
