As we near the annual Scottish Bread Championship, I look back and into the future of Scottish bakers. We have seen a significant change in Scotland’s food scene since I co-created the Championship in 2017 with Andrew Whitley, baker, bread expert, co-founder of the Real Bread Campaign and Scotland The Bread, and author of numerous books on sourdough.
Who could have predicted we would have dozens of customers queueing round the block outside pocket-sized artisan bakeries on a Saturday morn? Who could imagine we would be swooning over laminations, crust designs and crumb on Instagram, and shops selling out of yeast? Yet here we are and the world is a better place for it. And none of this has happened as a result of corporations or quangos; it is due to the endeavours of inspiring trailblazers with passion, determined to bring back better bread.
As we celebrate our 10th Championship, those in power seem no nearer recognising a good thing when they see it. For all the Good Food Nation chat, healthy bread still doesn’t receive the respect it deserves; neglecting its health benefits in a world dominated by ultra processed junk food. But we are not to be dismissed or under-estimated: we shall not be daunted in our quest, and the humble loaf will rise up and shine in all its glory. For a decade, Andrew and I have run the Championship – and for the last four years the Scottish Festival of Real Bread, the following day – on a shoestring, taking no pay or expenses for ourselves, with the number of entries increasing year on year. The support in kind from well-wishers, volunteers and bakers has been heart-warming and immeasurable in terms of practical help and virtual hugs.
When it comes to the Staff of Life, it is the Edinburgh Bakers Trust that recognises the public interest and the value of breadmaking in terms of our food culture and heritage, healthy eating, knowledge of grains and retention of skills, and we are deeply appreciative of their support as lead sponsors. They have deemed us worthy and stepped up to the plate, for which we are forever grateful and appreciate their faith in us. Shame the powers that be who won’t part with the dough.
The Edinburgh Bakers Trust was created by the Incorporation of Baxters (the historic name for those who bake bread) of the City of Edinburgh, one of the City Trades originating in medieval times. The Incorporation still exists and promotes good, independent baking in Edinburgh. The Trust, a separate entity and Scottish charity, was formed (coincidentally) in 2017 to act as a grant making fund.
The Trust motif is a baker boy watercolour by John Howie from the Edinburgh City Archives and this year we have enlisted the assistance of a volunteer who has entered into the spirit of our event by bringing the lad back to life, resplendent with baker’s tray. The bespoke ‘bonnet’ has been created by Lois of Bluebell Design here in Fife and methinks she has done us proud. My photo doesn’t do it justice as it’s brimming with Chelsea buns and cherry muffins too. Come along to our Festival on the Saturday 28th Feb and see for yourself.
Life goes on at Scottish Food Guide HQ: greeting new members Heart of Scotland Distillery, Norse Pilgrim Tea, Smeaton Nursery Gardens, Tearoom & Greenhouse Gallery, and Going Native Heritage Meats. It is rewarding to see that Scotland still has excellent high street butchers, and every braw bit of beef needs a good tattie variety so if you’re not sure of your tubers, I recommend a wee trip to Kirriemuir Tattie Day this weekend where Andrew and Amy Skea will keep you right on the world of potatoes.
And talking of the world, I presented my webinar to a group of experienced tourism teams last week, on behalf of IGCAT, on “Raising Standards Through Food Guides.” Participants hailed from Croatia, Saudi Arabia, Spain, Portugal, Armenia, Menorca, Ecuador, Tunisia, Romania, Hungary, Gozo and Norway. I really enjoyed it as there were many questions and much engagement, familiar faces and new introductions. It was an absolute pleasure to virtually meet them all.
Title page loaf, Cukie Swedish Bakery
