How Authentic is our Food?
It’s a pretty wild world at the moment. Between tariffs and taxes, bureaucracy and legislation, life can seem a tightrope at times. Yet there are some things we can always trust, such as our produce, right? Well not necessarily… which is why numerous chefs are now growing their own and linking directly with farmers and producers. More of that later.
The most recent Cross Party Food Group topic was Food Fraud, something I have come across from time to time in my career: when a charcuterie or cheese has been cited on a menu where no order has been placed, or a breed of cattle implied to increase the price tag on a dish. I hasten to add these transgressions have never been among Scottish Food Guide members.
That evening at Holyrood, the speakers were Professor Chris Elliott OBE, Queen’s University Belfast, Ron McNaughton, Food Standards Scotland and Helen Gillen, the Food and Drink Federation. Interesting case studies were recounted: from industrial scale food crime associated with honey, horsemeat and olive oil, to small-scale seeding salt and blending teas. With today’s complex supply chains, we are very vulnerable to those wishing to perpetrate criminal activities, largely for monetary benefit at our expense. Such fraud not only hits our wallet, it can cause illness from contaminants or allergens and muddies the reputations of innocent others who then need to reassure customers their product is 100% authentic. Good reasons to shorten the food chain and source locally from trusted producers.
Food fraud is one aspect however our third speaker highlighted food authenticity, something of particular interest to me as my research supports that Scotland has some work to do there. The focus is so often on obesity and reformulation or exports and profit, yet Scotland’s environment and integrity can be forgotten along the way. We certainly have some world class food, some of the time …but not all of the time as some would have you believe.
I asked a question of Professor Elliott regarding the deletion of the word ‘farmed’ on farmed salmon’s PGI status. He responded vigorously that he had argued against its omission and agreed with me. When another in the room commented it remained on the packaging, he countered that did not make it acceptable. It gives me hope. The omission of ‘farmed’ obscures the transparency of the product and deludes the consumer – are these multinational companies uncomfortable with their product’s provenance I wonder? It is not only many home cooks who think salmon has been surfing the waves, many chefs – particularly abroad – believe the king of fish they serve lived a wild and free life. Not so. Meanwhile Scotland’s wild salmon suffer near extinction with pollution of its gene pool and waters, and Baltic herring, along with other species, are hovered up unsustainably to make fish feed.
I am a staunch supporter of the #OffTheTable campaign, rejecting farmed salmon, as is Slow Food International and an increasing number of sustainable chefs. You have to make your own decision and many feel pressurised by customer demands however farmed freshwater trout is less damaging to the environment and, better still, explore and encourage the enjoyment of other sustainable species of fish.
Reformulation, another bugbear of mine, has encouraged a tsunami of artificial sweeteners and ultra-processed food, also enabling unhealthy food and drink to duck the sugar tax.. Reduction in dairy – plus increased overheads – have proliferated the use of palm oil across the board. Colourless, odourless and cheap it may be BUT its ubiquitous use has many negative impacts; an increase in allergies, deforestation, labour exploitation, health issues and destruction of the habitat of Orangutans, a highly intelligent species severely under threat. And no, I consider there to be no such thing as sustainable palm oil. I am delighted to report the Orangutan Land Trust now follow me on Blue Sky!
Examine many packs of ‘artisan’ oatcakes and you will find palm oil or ‘vegetable shortening that includes palm oil’ among the ingredients. Since when did that grow in Scotland? It certainly isn’t in my granny’s recipe! C’mon Scotland, you can do better. Bring back butter! We can only hope farmed salmon, deep fried chocolate bars and palm oil oatcakes were #OffTheTable for New York’s Tartan Week.
It’s time to look at environmental alternatives for successful healthy food production – we consider many of these in our book “Meadows: The Swedish Farmer & The Scottish Cook.”(Yes, I confess that was a wee plug). These days we need a safe food system, robust and natural, sustainable and varied, small-scale and not wholly reliant on fossil fuels, chemical inputs and narrow genetics.
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How does your garden grow?
Every step we take in food production has consequences which is why more chefs are growing their own – or seeking those who can supply homegrown, for flavour, freshness, unprocessed and seasonal. Building relationships between chefs, cooks, producers, growers and herders is a mainstay of Scottish Food Guide’s raison d’être, whether folk be home cooks, hot chefs or appreciative diners. Our own compact kitchen garden is taking shape but elsewhere Calum Montgomery and Wilsons Farm & Kitchen are among many who have generously-sized polytunnels, Cringletie, Knockinaam, Contini and The Argyll have walled gardens, Barrie Henderson has a modest kitchen garden, and The Dory kitchen garden is very impressive, both tucked behind the restaurants. There are many more so please drop me an email and you’ll get a mention soon.
There would be few, if any, who would disagree that Fred Berkmiller takes it to a whole new level.
Nestled between the bypass and Musselburgh is a green and pleasant land where Chef Patron Fred Berkmiller has created an oasis of plentiful vegetables, his own bespoke market garden supplying the best possible produce for his restaurant l’Escargot Bleu in Edinburgh. You couldn’t wish for a shorter supply chain, a fresher delivery nor higher quality Slow ingredients.
For three years Fred has been hard at work, a labour of love and determination, nourishing the soils naturally with his home-produced compost, mulching and dressing, watering and nurturing. At long last, he can see his lengthy groundwork paying off and the results are blooming impressive. Food production takes time and good food production takes longer… Slow growing but worth the wait.
Fred is a Member of the Slow Food Cooks Alliance but long before he was influenced and guided by great cooks since his youth. Those of you who read his “covid blogs” enjoyed tales from his early kitchen days: the hard taskmasters and the inspiring guiding lights, all the time driven by the quality of the produce and the importance of serving his customers the best there is.
From modest beginnings and back-breaking preparations, Fred can now produce the majority of fruit and vegetables for this kitchen. He can carefully source heritage seeds, create his own cuttings and harvest varietals favoured for their flavour and characteristics, not one of which you would find in a supermarket (any more than you would find Fred in one!).
From multicoloured carrots to hearty celeriac; asparagus nurtured patiently; fennel fronds multiplying; berries, roots, leaves and blossoms, Fred strategically plans his garden to provide year-round colour and flavours. He supports Ark of Taste seeds with tasty Musselburgh Leeks and heritage courgettes from France.
In this chemical-free environment, he discourages slugs with sly tactics, deters pigeons with netting and over-winters delicate leaves under glass. Working with nature and a no-dig philosophy, Fred produces delicious food second to none. It comes at a price, arguably priceless. Fred spends up to three days a week working in the garden, producing this food for his menus, along with the help of another plus his restaurant staff from time to time. They are encouraged to play a part, if they so wish, to enable them to appreciate and contribute to what is prepped in the kitchen and served at the table. Most choose to do so at some point. This is not a cheap method of food production: it takes time and resources, dedication and patience, energy and tenacity. But for Fred it is the only way to achieve what he yearns for: provenance is king, and, as he says, “Good food is hard to find these days and so too are good ingredients. This way I know for sure where my ingredients come from, what went into the soil to nourish them and how they were handled until they reach my kitchen.”
The mission is never over: seasons come and go; new life springs from seedling trays enabling year-round produce for l’Escargot Bleu. Fred and Betty’s highly regarded restaurant and downstairs Wine Bar have won many plaudits, including most recently holder of the coveted World’s French Restaurant Award, highlighting French gastronomy and its values worldwide. All his meats are sourced from family farms rearing pasture fed heritage breeds of cattle and sheep; high welfare, free ranging as nature intended.
Perhaps this wonderful story of food production will inspire us all to get sowing so we can reap the rewards in the months to follow. Alternatively check out Scottish Farm Shops and they will do all that work for you.
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Last but my no means least…Give us our daily bread
If you didn’t already know, across Scotland we have a growing number of artisan bakers to thank for the improved state of our nation’s bread. These days there is no excuse for buying “faux sourdough” or other pappy bread from supermarkets. So much better to support local family businesses, some of whom have joined Scottish Food Guide, This year’s Championship, with Main Sponsor The Edinburgh Bakers Trust had its fair share of home bakers in addition to a lovely representation of professional bakers from across the land. Of course it needn’t be only sourdough loaves for the Championship but all entries must conform to the principles of Real Bread, so, if not sourdough, then yeast with no other chemical additives.
This year’s entries hit an all-time high in terms of quality and quantity and I take my hat off to you all and thank you most sincerely for joining in. for FULL RESULTS & OUR FABULOUS TEAM OF JUDGES click here
The following day was the Scottish Festival of Real Bread where kindred spirits met and mingled, novices could learn, children started their bread journey and artisan producers hopefully made a bob or two. Stalls included lovely waxed food covers, Cairn O’Mohr foraged wines, honey and artisan cheeses from Scottish Cheese Trail. Meet The Baker, flatbread workshops, the Big Thresh, Scotland The Bread Mill Tours, Elaine’s Something Corny straw work, Bosse’s heritage grains and Alison’s bread workshops were very popular. Congratulations to the winners who were presented with their awards: Supreme Champion Sourdough Loaf, Seamus Macleod of Selkie Bakery, Reserve Champion 100%Rye Loaf with Coriander & Sunflower Seeds, Dunbar Community Bakery, and all the Gold award winners present. Many thanks to every contestant, volunteer, judge, and contributor and hope to see you all next year.
Thank you for reading, best wishes Wendy
